Factors of Seam Abrasion Resistance

Seam Abrasion Resistance:

It is easy to determine the resistance to abrasion of a sewing thread but the abrasion resistance of that sewing thread does not behave similarly when stitches into a seam. The reasons behind it is that some factors e.g. stitch type, seam type, sewing conditions, fabric types, thread types etc. alters the sewing thread abrasion behavior.

Study on seam abrasion resistance

Fig: Study on seam abrasion resistance

To determine the seam abrasion resistances, a seam abrasion machine (SAM) has been developed by J & P COAT’s research laboratory. In this machine a multi-directional abrasion action operates along the edge of the seam. The test result is expressed as number of rubs to first stitch failure. This article has shown some key factors which are directly affected on seam abrasion resistances.

Factors Affecting on Seam Abrasion Resistance:

Abrasion resistances of a seam varies depending on some factors which are pointed out in the below:

  1. Type of threads,
  2. Stitch balance,
  3. Seam tightness,
  4. Fabric type.

All the above four factors have explained in the following:

1. Type of threads:

It has been clearly established that synthetic threads are far superior to the natural threads in terms of abrasion resistances but it is not clear whether these results would also apply in case of seams.

2. Stitch balance:

Normally in a two thread chain stitch seam (type-401), the ratio of the needle thread to looper threads is 1:1.7. If this ratio is reduced by increasing the length of feed of the needle then the abrasion resistances of the chain side is improved. But if the needle thread length increases more than the looper thread then the abrasion resistances performance falls rapidly.

3. Seam tightness:

In the case of tight seams, resistance to abrasion is higher than the loose seams. The fabrics which are pucker prone are frequently stitched under very light tensions although sometimes seam grim is unavoidable. Higher the seam grim the less will be the seam abrasion resistance.

4. Fabric type:

Type of fabric is also important in this regard. Because, a coated or densely woven fabric will not permit the sewing thread to bed down and thus increases the susceptibility to the surface abrasion.

Hence, for garments likely to be exposed to abrasive elements during wear it is important to check stitch balance, seam and stitch type, fabric type, sewing thread type, seam tightness, seam grim aspect etc. To obtain a satisfactory seam abrasion resistance before going to full scale garments production.

Written By-

S M Hossen Uzzal
Planning Executive at Modele De Capital Ind. Ltd.
Narayanganj, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: uhossen@gmail.com

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Mayedul Islam

Mayedul Islam is working as a Sr. Merchandiser in a reputed Buying House. He has great passion in writing different articles on textile and Garments specially on Merchandising and Garment Washing. Send email:mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

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