How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel Industry

How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel Industry?

Before manufacturing any garment product in the readymade garment industry, the fabric should be tested whether it is perfect or not for sewing. In the fabric sewability assessment method, some tests should be followed which are mentioned in this article.

Fabric sewability assessment lab

Fig: Fabric sewability assessment lab

Fabric Sewability Assessment Method Followed in Garment Industry:

To assess the sewability of fabric, it is necessary to do the following tests:

  1. Seam strength,
  2. Seam puckering,
  3. Seam slippage,
  4. Resistance to fraying,
  5. Lubricant content.

All the above tests have explained the below:

1. Seam strength:

The proposed end-use and properties of the fabric are considered when sewing thread type, stitch type, and sewing conditions are determined. The seam strength test is done to ensure that the necessary values for sewability have been achieved.

2. Seam puckering:

Sample fabric is sewn in both warp and weft directions as per pre-selected sewing conditions. Seam puckering due to the structural jamming is observed and recorded. Densely woven fabrics frequently contribute to this type of defect. it is so important to test the sewability of fabric.

3. Seam slippage:

Seam slippage of specimen seams sewn in both warp and weft directions are evaluated as per the standard test method for fabric sewability so that the slippage does not exceed 5mm.

4. Resistance to fraying:

The sample fabric is subjected to a domestic wash cycle. After that, fabric fraying from the edge in both warp and weft directions is measured to ensure that fraying does not exceed 3mm.

5. Lubricant content:

The percentage of lubricant present in a fabric is determined by treating the fabric with a suitable solvent. To facilitate trouble-free sewing, lubricant content in a piece of fabric should be between 0.5 to 1% depending on fabric type, construction and lubricant type, etc. if the lubricant content in a fabric is too low than the required amount, then fabric damaged by needle or frictional heat in needle would obviously result. It is also very important to test for fabric sewability assessment.

Fabrics passing all the above-mentioned tests for fabric sewability assessment are assumed to be suitable for making-up. Failure in any of the mentioned test, attention should be drawn to the fabric manufacturer, so that they could take corrective measures before marketing their products.

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