Pattern Paper | Garment Pattern Making Terms

Pattern Paper | Pattern Making Terms Used in Apparel Industry

Pattern Paper:

Pattern paper comes in a variety of weights and colors. Each serves a special purpose. Each paper supplier uses a code system to indicate the range of paperweights available. The manufacturer’s preference is based on personal choice and the use to which it is put. The heavy pattern papers are commonly referred to as tagboard, manila, or hard paper whereas the lighter weights are called marking the paper. Some important pattern-making terms that are vastly used in the readymade garment industry have been explained in this article.

Garment pattern making department

Fig: Garment pattern making department

Different Pattern Making Terms Used in Readymade Garment Industry:

There are different pattern making terms that are related to the workroom have pointed out in the following:

  1. Pattern drafting,
  2. Flat pattern making,
  3. Working pattern,
  4. First patterns,
  5. Production pattern,
  6. Pattern grader,
  7. Pattern marker maker,
  8. Pattern cutter,
  9. High ply cutter.

All the above terms have explained the below:

1. Pattern drafting:

Pattern drafting is a method that totally depends on measurements taken from a form or model to make basic, foundation, or design patterns.

2. Flat pattern making:

Flat pattern making is a method that is dependent on previously developed patterns. In the case of the flat pattern making method, the patterns are manipulated by using a pivotal or slash method to make design patterns.

3. Working pattern:

Working pattern is that which is used as a base for manipulation when generating design patterns.

4. First patterns:

The original pattern was developed for each design. This pattern is generally made from marking paper and usually requires fitting and adjustments. Half a pattern is developed unless the design is asymmetrical.

5. Production Pattern:

It is one kind of pattern set that has been perfected and corrected and contains every pattern piece required to complete the garment. Production pattern is normally used by the grader for grading sizes and by the marker maker for preparing fabric layout.

6. Pattern grader:

The grader proportionately increases and decreases the size of an original pattern within a size range. Here, the grade is in the circumference, length, and width.

7. Pattern marker maker:

A marker is the length of paper containing a copy of all pattern pieces to be cut at one time. All patterns are interlocked and aligned on the marker papers so that when cut the grain lines will lie parallel to the selvage of the fabric. The completed marker is placed on top of layers of fabric as a guide for the cutter.

8. Pattern cutter:

After the marker is made and laid on top of the layers of fabric, the garments are cut by the cutter or by a computerized cutting machine.

9. High ply cutter:

Up to three inches of compressed fabric can be consistently and accurately cut using a high-efficiency vacuum hold-down system.

-Written by

S M Hossen Uzzal
Planning Executive at Modele De Capital Ind. Ltd.
Narayanganj, Dhaka, Bangladesh.


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